Travel Guide: Grayson Highlands State Park

     Grayson Highlands State Park has long been a favorite of Appalachian outdoor enthusiasts. The park encompasses 4,502 acres of high elevation forests, mountain streams, and highland balds, and boasts a plethora of outdoor activities including hiking, bouldering, and horseback riding. With views for miles, a herd of wild highland ponies, and abundant wildlife, Grayson Highlands is a world all its own. The unpredictable highland weather and windswept slopes make Grayson Highlands feels like Virginia's version of Scotland. Located in the beautiful, remote mountains of Southern Virginia, there is not much to do outside the park, but that's probably for the best because the park itself can keep any outdoor enthusiast busy for several days with its breathtaking beauty and many outdoor activities. Based on several days of extremely enjoyable field research, this is my personal guide to the best places to stay, hike, climb, and explore in Grayson Highlands State Park. 

Background

    Grayson Highlands State Park was originally established in 1965 under the name Mount Rogers State Park. Before the park, the land was home to several mountain homesteads where farmers grazed cattle (Which caused the iconic "bald" mountaintops in the park). Unlike many public recreation lands including the Great Smokey Mountains, the local community was actually extremely supportive of establishing Grayson Highlands. Community members initiated a fundraiser to purchase the land as well as donating many of the historical items you can see in the visitor center like handmade quilts and the basic tools of a mountain homestead. Many of the place names in the park, like Massie Gap and Wilburn Ridge, are from the families who previously lived there. 

    Grayson Highlands is perhaps most famous for the wild ponies that roam the slopes there. The National Forest Service first introduced ponies in 1974 to prevent the balds from reforesting. Since then, the pony population has thrived in the harsh highland climate. The same characteristics that make them so resilient; their shaggy manes, stocky bodies, and relaxed dispositions, also make them a favorite among hikers and tourists. It is not uncommon to find a group of ponies grazing around Massie Gap or along the AT.  

Where to Stay

    There are several options when it comes to spending the night in GHSP. From yurts to dispersed camping on the AT, this is a pick-your-own-adventure of overnight accommodations. 

Yurts and Bunkhouse

   The park offers accommodations in both yurts and a bunkhouse. The yurts are in the middle of the spectrum between tent-camping and cabins, with canvas walls and a substantial roof. You can take advantage of the firepit and outdoor picnic tables to enjoy a camping experience without worrying about getting soaked if a storm comes. The bunkhouse is a step up in amenities with heating and air, a refrigerator, coffee pot, and microwave. These two-room lodges sleep 7 people in bunk beds. While I have not personally stayed in the yurts or bunkhouse, you can find more information and reserve a spot here. 

GHSP Campground

    The GHSP campground lacks wow factor but makes up for it with convenience. You can make a reservation in advance and get a site with a fire pit, picnic table, and access to bathhouses and potable water. I felt like the campground was a little cramped during my night here as the spaces are right next to each other. That being said, the surrounding trees create a nice forest atmosphere and all the other campers were friendly. There's also a lot to be said for having convenient access to water and restrooms when camping. To find more information on camping at GHSP, click here. 

Dispersed Camping on the AT 

    There is one other camping option at GHSP, and that is dispersed camping on the Appalachian Trail. You can park at the backpacking lot in GHSP for a reservation and nightly fee, and pack your gear out to the AT. Camping is not allowed in the park itself, so you have to hike approximately 1 mile to the border, but if you go to Massie Gap and follow the AT through a gate in the fence that surrounds the park, there are a number of great spots right on the other side. These campsites are right in the middle of the iconic Grayson Highland balds. You can find spots in sheltered hemlock groves, or go right out in the open for spectacular views of the sunset and sunrise. Chances are, you will also encounter some wild ponies while you are here. 

    I spent one night here, at a campsite on the AT right outside the park. It was one of the most scenic and peaceful places I have ever spent the night. I set my tent up on the west side of a ridge, sheltered from the wind, and watched the sunset while a small lightning storm brewed behind me. Luckily, I got to enjoy the ambiance of the storm without actually getting wet, but be prepared for some rain if you camp here as GHSP is known for its unpredictable weather. 

Whitetop Mountain Camping

    If you want to explore GHSP and the surrounding area while also having a secluded drive-in campsite, then Whitetop Mountain might be for you. Whitetop Mountain is a 30-minute drive down the road from GHSP in Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and offers beautiful primitive camping. At 5,520 feet, it is the second-highest peak in Virginia next to Mount Rogers. The Appalachian Trail crosses Whitetop, and winds through beautiful wildflower meadows dotted with rock outcroppings. Driving Whitetop Road, you will encounter eastern and northern hardwood forests, highland balds, and Northern Red Spruce forests. The peak itself is covered in trees, but the side of the mountain is a beautiful highland meadow where you can catch amazing views. This is a popular spot for birders and wildflower enthusiasts as well as hikers because of the wealth of flora and fauna that live on Whitetop.

    Aside from being a great place to visit for the day, Whitetop has a number of primitive camping spots that you can set up at for free. Follow Whitetop Mountain Road, which goes all the way to the top of the mountain, and you will find a number of roadside campsites in the meadow. The road is gravel but people use it a lot and I found it to be easy to drive. The sites here are spread out and will definitely give you more of a wild feel without having to pack in your gear. Most of them have beautiful mountain views, and my night there was incredibly quiet with a great view of the stars due to the lack of light pollution. Because these are primitive sites, keep in mind that you will need to bring all your water and be prepared to leave no trace. 

To learn more about Whitetop Mountain, check out this article from The Outbound Collective. 

Hiking

    There are several short loops in the GHSP where you can find waterfalls, apple orchards, and lots of boulders. The main attraction of Grayson Highlands hiking, though, is the Appalachian Trail which runs through the park at Massie Gap. One of the most popular routes follows the AT from Massie Gap to Mount Rogers, the tallest mountain in Virginia. This 10.5 mile out-and-back hike will take you out of Grayson Highlands and through Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. While the summit itself is not super exciting (any potential views are covered by the lush spruce-fir forest that blankets the top), the trip there is absolutely scenic. This section of the AT crosses a series of bald knobs that offer stunning views at every turn. This route is great for a day hike, or you can extend your time a little and spend the night at Lewis Fork Shelter or one of the many other campsites along the AT. Keep in mind that this area is known for unpredictable weather, high wind, and low temperatures, so come prepared even in summer. Expect to see lots of interesting rock outcroppings, copses of trees, and wild ponies along the way. Mount Rogers is home to a rare high altitude Southern Appalachian Spruce-Fir forests, which only grow in five other locations in the US. Because MRNRA is more remote, I found that there is also a lot of wildlife to be seen on the trail. On one day hike, I spotted a baby black bear, a small rat snake, some bunnies, and countless songbirds. 

Bouldering

    Grayson Highlands is widely considered one of the premier bouldering destinations in the Southeast with nationally famous problems like Ranger Rick and True Grit. One of the wonderful things about Grayson Highlands is how supportive the park is of climbing. When climbers started to take notice of the amazing bouldering opportunities in the area, they worked with the park administration to develop a good relationship between climbers and the park. These efforts were so successful that nowadays you can even rent crash pads from the visitors center and check out an official bouldering trail with informational signs!

    There are a few things to keep in mind in order to make sure climbers and park staff continue to have a mutually beneficial relationship. Firstly, the park allows and encourages bouldering, but any rope climbing is off-limits. So while it may be tempting to top rope some of those bigger highballs, it's better to just focus on the hundreds of killer ropeless routes in the park instead. The park also requires boulderers to use crash pads for safety reasons. As with any natural area, it is also very important to follow leave no trace (LNT) principles while climbing in this area. This guide gives an overview of LNT for climbers, but the basics are to avoid going off-trail as much as possible and avoid messing with the lichen at all costs. So, without further ado, here are some of the best bouldering areas in the park. 

Listening Rock Trail

    Listening Rock Trail (LRT) is my personal favorite area to boulder in the park because of the high concentration of interesting, fun routes. The short 1.4 mile trail hosts a whopping 279 official routes, most of which are just meters from the parking area. I found that the shady tree cover and addictive problems make it easy to spend all day climbing your heart out here. 

The Highlands: Massie Gap

    Massie Gap is easily the most iconic bouldering spot in Grayson Highlands. This is the highlands proper, with extremely exposed boulder problems, 360-degree views, and wild ponies for days. While the boulders aren't as numerous as other areas like LRT, the highlands are definitely worth a visit for the sheer beauty of climbing in such an exposed area. Take the main trail from the parking lot to Massie gap, then meander along the Appalachian Trail to a series of outcroppings that are spread across the ridge. While you're at it, this a great place to picnic and spend some time exploring the unique landscape. 

Split Rock Bouldering Trail

    If there was ever such a thing as bouldering for tourists this is it. Split Rock Bouldering Trail is conveniently located right by the entrance to the park at the contact station. At the contact station (which is basically a visitor center), you can find crash pads and chalk bags for rent. This area has a short, minute-long approach and features popular problems like Ranger Rick and Periscope. There are even informational signs in front of some of the boulders showing routes, difficulty, and first ascents. Come here to relive climbing lore and try your luck with some of the most famous problems in the area. 

Picnic Area 

    Have you ever thought to yourself, "I wish I could boulder and see historical artifacts at the same time"? No? Well either way, the picnic area at Grayson Highlands has an unlikely combination of both epic boulder problems and historical homesteader cabins. Here, you can try out the classic Olympus boulder and take a break by learning about the history of the homesteaders who used to inhabit the area. 

AVP

    The AVP area is technically outside of park limits, but worth the short drive for the interesting problems. There has been some speculation about the lore behind the name AVP, but the consensus seems to be that it stands for "Aliens Versus Predators" because one of the boulders looks like a UFO perched in the middle of the forest. This area features some of the most inspiring overhang routes I have seen, so be prepared to have sore arms by the end of the day! One perk of being outside the park is that this area is only frequented by other climbers. So if you want to spend some time scaling rocks in the woods without being asked why you are carrying a mattress on your back, this is the place to go. 

For more detailed information about routes and directions, visit Mountain Project. 

Why It's Awesome

    Grayson Highlands State Park hosts a range of different outdoor activities to explore. From hiking or bouldering to taking in the historical sights, there are numerous ways to experience this breathtaking location. With a variety of camping and accommodation options, you can take your pick to connect with the outdoors or stay cozy. The rare plants and wildlife, unpredictable weather, and resident ponies make the park feel like an alien world in the best way. However you visit Grayson Highlands, it is sure to be an adventure.